I tried wiggling the wire that goes from the front of the igniter box ... it will stop clicking for many hours and then start up again. Sure enough, the clicking would stop. If this is the case, I clean up all of the heat registers. This has to be fixed and its a good idea to take technical help here. RV Furnace Runs Once But Won’t Restart This sort of issue is most often caused by a blockage in the air intake or exhaust, which causes a lack of air in the combustion chamber. If it does so, all I have to do is adjust the air-to-fuel ratio. If the furnaces was installed recently check with the company support. After reconnecting the cables to the terminal, verify to ensure that the internal lights of the RV, the furnace, and the thermostat are receiving power. You have to remove the cable from the wall carefully for checking this. Following this, switch on the thermostat and allow it to reset the internal program. This can be a problem, as there will be no flame, or it won’t stay on for long. One such topic is furnace issues. The suburban forced air furnace in the RV will not ignite. Forest River shares its “birth year” with Keystone, having been founded in the mid-nineties. Nobody likes a loud RV furnace, especially the one that rumbles into the night like a motorcycle. Maintaining the furnace must be a priority since it provides heat for everyone within the motorhome. The flame would start up, but if it isn’t steady, the safety valve closes up and extinguishes it. In terms of Forest River furnaces, they usually have issues with no ignition, cold air blowing or will simply not start. Sometimes, it’s the heater or even the control board. Condensate pans (aka drain pans) accumulate water that has been removed from the air by your air conditioner or furnace. One of our friends travel trailer Dometic furnace had this issue but they couldn’t get it fixed. It might be a good idea to begin at the furnace on its own. In that case, the best thing to do is to either replace the wire (or the whole mechanism) or just use electrical tape. Furnaces are designed to make sure they are turned off once the temperature is reached. Cleaning them properly can help solve this problem. Everything else works in the fiver, stove lights and all circuits are good. The furnace not igniting can happen because of several reasons, so whenever I have an issue like this, I follow a few steps. This gas valve is what regulates gas flow to the burners and the pilot light. Most companies that build furnaces will use a variety of oils to lubricate the metal. I do hear a click - seems like down by the furnace. Of course, a faulty blower must be replaced as soon as possible. Duo-Therm is a company that specializes in RV furnaces. Notify me of follow-up comments by email. We have seen such a issue with our suburban furnace last year. Why is My Furnace Blowing Cold Air? It’s just the new furnace “getting used to” the heat. While not the most serious of problems, it’s absolutely one of the most annoying ones. Any of your RV appliances making noise is disturbing. The blower propels this warm air into your RV… But there will be times when the furnace will blow a freshly replaced fuse as well. Normally, RVs have two separate blowers — for air regulation and gas removal. Luckily, I’ve compiled a list of tips dealing with this particular subject. However, after waiting for a while, it seems that no heat come from the outlets. Check the furnace filter. In that case, I recommend a thorough cleaning. This has to be fixed and its a good idea to take technical help here. This is actually an issue, considering they specialize in products related to motorhomes, especially furnaces. Removing the excess duct can be one solution if you encounter the problem initially. Either ways make sure you take it on priority as otherwise it can result in heating problems. RV propane furnace troubleshooting is but one of many topics RVers like myself tend to talk about often. And this was happening every-time. It isn’t pleasant, and it usually sets off red flags. Three batteries might be the golden standard, though, but not more than that. Replace the wire or thermostat to fix the problem. Wippign off fan balds during the maintenance is also recommended. In case the thermostat has got a digital display panel which is blinking, it might be because of a loose cable. Sometimes, the thermocouple needs to be replaced, which I do as quickly as possible after the check. The reason I’ve mentioned the lack of forum presence of Suburban is that the issue from this subheading is a one a LOT of Suburban users complained about. Sometimes, only the valve coil might need replacement, not the whole valve itself. First, I check if I have any propane left. When compared to other manufacturers, these problems don’t seem as bad. It just stands there motionless. I’ve once had to deal with water in my electrical compartments. Maybe it’s the moisture in the valve, the regulator or even the hoses freezing at low temperatures. There could also be possibility of having a bad temperature limiting switch. This is a common problem with furnaces in RV. In other words, there’s an ignition system malfunction that needs to be fixed. There will be times when the furnace fan clearly works but no heat comes from it. Any number of reasons can be behind a broken igniter. Luckily, most service centers handle Atwood RVs, so if troubleshooting doesn’t help, professionals will. Check for debris, dirt or bugs in the exhaust or inlet. Nevertheless, they remain popular, which is why so many people want to know how to fix their Atwood RV furnaces. Keeping yourself warm is keeping yourself comfortable. However, in case of faulty bearings, I always recommend proper replacement. Cautiously strip one inch of protective layer back on the two exposed wire sections. In addition, they heat up the entire RV, which can be both good and bad. If even after clearing the vents the issue is not resolved then do check with the company or technician. That means I need to clean them thoroughly and lubricate where necessary. A wire might even get overloaded or the protective layer can become damaged. Atwood is probably the oldest of the manufacturers listed here, having been founded in 1909. If it’s the fan making the noise, soundproofing can help. Most of those issues are addressed in this text. If your furnace clicks on or initiates the start cycle, but does not fire up, you likely have a faulty or dirty ignitor/sensor. Any number of issues can be the cause of this. I would also suggest buying a propane cylinder that also has a leak detector and a gas gauge. If it is neither of these reasons causing the issue, try turning the fan switch to "on" to force the furnace to start blowing air. I ought to stress that not all of the solutions above apply to all RV furnace models out there. Other things to look at include duct inspection and repairs, cleaning the fan, and checking on igniter lines. Simply hooking them up to a shore power source won’t do any good then. Burnt fuses or tripped breakers can also cause problems with the igniter. Snip out the section which has been damaged by making use of a wire cutter. Lots of excess propane gets wasted, for instance. In order to access the igniter you will need to remove the furnace. In such cases, replacing the batteries will be a sensible idea. I've cycled the furnace switch, several times and the fan never comes on. There could also be some clogging issues with the furnace jets or the exhaust hole. The most common ones with Keystone models appear to be intermittent heating, lack of air flow and lots of clicking noises. Disconnect carefully the wires and the connections from the terminal which is corroded. For example, the igniter can be malfunctioning or dirty, and, as such, can allow for gas build-up. You can try to turn … A weak power source won’t trigger the sail switch, and it won’t regulate the air flow. If the furnace starts, the problem is either with the thermostat wire or thermostat. Without adequate electricity being supplied to the furnace or the thermostat, it might not be able to fire, and the fan may or may not work at all. If it … This issue or if the furnace is blowing cold air could be due to the circuit board issue or the limit switch issue. Ensure to verify what exactly the propane line is going to enter inside the body of the camper. The thermostat is not connected to the onboard batteries in some RVs. Cleanig is definaetly a way to maintain the furnace but it may not immedietly reduce the nosie. Usually, I first check the pilot light. In case there’s a gas leak, I don’t think twice at all. 2. Each RV comes with furnaces of different sizes, types, and capabilities. However, clicking doesn’t always include the igniter. There will be times when the furnace backfires severely. Lets check out the furnace problems and how to fix them. After I switch off the furnace, I move to the access door and open it. Some come with safety harnesses, but even with one, there’s the danger of the furnace toppling and causing a big mess. One oddity that seems to be of particular interest to homeowners each winter is why a thermostat clicks but there’s no heat and the furnace doesn’t start. I hear the fan and then a clicking. If, for example, the smoke comes excessively from a new furnace, that’s perfectly fine. If I plan on using my RV at home and hooking it up to shore power (i.e. The battery is fine, and when checking the furnace it makes 3 clicks but the fan never starts. RV furnace clicks but won’t start. However, there’s always the risk of a power outage, in which case most of the RV systems will shut down instantly. Well, yes and no. In fact, the Keystone forums are well known for their openness in helping their customers and fellow RV enthusiasts. If you have installed a new furnace then try it out multiple items before heading for a camping trip with heavy snow and chilling cold. But like most things, furnaces can malfunction. If that’s the case, the only solution is to visit the closest RV repairman and have them look into it. You may be capable of using the 12 Volt battery from the tow vehicle or motorhome in a moment of panic; however, it’s a kind of “Last Ditch” matter. When that happens, I replace it. In 90% of cases, that’s the issue at hand. I can take one in any section of my RV and heat whatever area I choose to. The best thing to do is to just let the furnace work normally. Take a fresh piece of wire which is similar to or perhaps thicker gauge and then strip the protective layer at each end by 1 inch. However, there are solutions to it. Thermocouples for RVs aren’t expensive, and anyone can replace them. Usually, this noise comes either from the fan or the motor. In case, there is any leakage on the mainline, you will find it difficult to identify it simply by smelling. In case the onboard batteries indicate that they are supplying adequate power to the device, then you can test to see if the issue is due to a broken or loose wire. Lets see the steps we need to follow for this. Hoses of propane tanks will occasionally get damaged, and when they do, they must be replaced. Your furnace is most likely making a clicking a noise due to your furnace’s spark igniter trying to ignite the pilot light/burners. Normally these issues have to do with the RV propane tank dealer’s supplier. One of the issues that will pop up in this text deals with noise, specifically squealing. This problem is especially troublesome when you are not getting heat at some point during the very cold winter months. Vents can blocked due to various things, debris dust can also block it. You would get the replacement if the issue isn’t resolved. Other possible “culprits” could be the sail switch being on, blower motor problems, or the time delay relay switch being closed instead of open. The solutions to these are closing the relay switch and the sail switch, as well as replacing a faulty blower motor. (Helpful Guide), RV Furnace Blower Comes on but Won’t Ignite, RV Furnace Will Not Stay Lit (It Works Intermittently), How to Check If RV Furnace Is Gas or Electric. In this episode of Repair and Replace, Vance shows how to troubleshoot a furnace that won't turn on. Wipe the baking soda off comprehensively by making use of a clean paper towel. A preventive maintenance can really help in keeping the furnace in good working condition. In my experience, it usually comes down to faulty or loose wiring. When it comes to the electronics, I always contact a professional. Clean all the debris or spiders. They can be found at www.keystoneforums.com, with hundreds of threads discussing various RV topics. Although it might work, it will not be able to fix the problem permanently. This is the ultimate result of other issues that can be with the whole furnace system in your RV. It can also be caused by a lack of gas pressure or a gas valve which is only partially opening. If you are in warranty then the company would replace it. The RV thermostat itself could have gone bad resulting in control cycling on and off. You’d never like to end up with a dead battery as well. If necessary, I clean up the burner ports or the pilot orifice and adjust the burner’s air shutter, just in case. In case this happens, paper towels and hair dryers are the way to go. A “short-cycling” furnace (when your furnace keeps turning off and on) will typically only run for a minute or two (or less) before shutting off. Some oil residue will, therefore, remain in the furnace, even after years of continued usage. This particular issue might actually not be an issue at all. The first is not that dangerous — it’s merely the igniter trying and failing to start the furnace. All of these prevent air flow and allow for gas build-up. Normally, I check the sail switch thoroughly every week just to make sure it functions properly. Remember you must first push the relay down and then up to reset. However, some furnaces continue working even past this, which can be dangerous. A burning rubber smell must be a bad sign, right? If my furnace doesn’t shut off, I immediately check the thermostat. Normally, this is an electrical issue. You never like to end up with a dead battery in the long run. Now it just won't even start. In addition, it’s easier to access and perform repairs from its position. Most of the ducts that run from the furnace run from the bottom through the entire RV, heating it up evenly. And just like Keystone, they maintain a lively online presence at www.forestriverforums.com. As its name suggests, it’s a propane-powered furnace for the motorhome. Even a small blockage can obstruct the air flow, so doing this properly is important. Starting at the furnace itself could be helpful. Of course, I always ignite the burner to give the new igniter a test run. Furnace won't start. A working of furnace will vary depending on the type and model. Then the furnace turns on and works normally. Check repeatedly all the connections as well as wires. In other words, it’s not a problem if the smell comes out once and then disappears with gradual use. People get confused, and sometimes even scared when this happens. This is a fairly common problem every RVer faces. Look closely at the connectors and the battery terminals. Make sure all the screws are tight enough and anything hat is lose is tightened. In the majority of these cases, it will be imperative for the entire unit to be replaced given that the sensor is going to die. Consequently, the panel should be checked for making certain that every single breaker for the thermostat and the furnace is switched on. It shouldn’t take long for the smell to dissipate. If either one of the two fails in some way, the fuses will keep blowing. The thermostat clicks but nothing happens. However, the sail switch itself can be the cause of this issue. If that’s the case, I either refill it at a proper facility or outright buy a new one. The first is the pilot light — I have to relight it, and if I’m successful, the valve will work. You want the problem fixed immediately. It might be possible for you to use duct tape for wrapping a small leakage. It makes no noises, nor does it crackle or vibrate. It’s important to note here that, should anyone install a filter on their RV furnace, they have to pay attention to how restrictive it is, or rather — isn’t. Models appear to be the issue but it may not immedietly reduce the nosie thermostat when your.! 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