exum mountain guides deathexum mountain guides death

Thats why climbing with protection is so popular. Soon after, they descended into the gully west of the route to find Gardner dead. accounts or history behind an article. Please turn off your CAPS LOCK. Exum climbing guide George Gardner fell to his death on the evening of July 19, 2008 while soloing the Lower Exum Ridge (5.7). Please log in, or sign up for a new account and purchase a subscription to read or post comments. 7/15/2013. Angus M. Thuermer Jr. is the natural resources reporter for WyoFile. From their base in Grand Teton National Park near Jenny Lake, Exum Mountain Guides provide guided climbing trips throughout . Climbing guide services and other businesses that employ workers in the backcountry might not all be aware that OSHA has standards they are required to meet, said Alex Kosseff, executive director of the American Mountain Guides Association. But the rope and ATC got stuck in a crack on the way up. He was a happy man, Johnstone said. It could fail if shock loaded. Theres going to be things that we can do in the future that will reduce our risk.. Heres wont you dont see in Angus story: Is OSHA doing work the NPS should be doing? Tell us what you think. But in 1981 he climbed Grand Teton to observe the 50th anniversary of scaling his ridge. Based in the Wasatch Range near Salt Lake and Park City since 1993, Utah Mountain Adventures (UMA) is the premier full-spectrum, year-round guide service in Utah. Teewinot is his ode to forty years in the mountains that he loves. Grand Teton | Pixabay Image Sign up to receive a weekly e-newsletter with a selection of private, public and continuing education news from theJackson Hole News&Guide. In some instances, the tail will pull through and the knot will fail after only 100 loading/unloading cycles. Sign up to receive a weekly e-newsletter with a selection of healthcare and wellness news from theJackson Hole News&Guide. Recovery of Gardners body, accomplished with a helicopter, was delayed when a rain shower moved through the Tetons early Sunday morning. Among the clues investigators used in their probe were burn-like marks on the tether webbing, possibly indicating stress from the friction of a knot pulling loose. This would be consistent with leaning out on a lanyard that fails, the report said. Share with us. The sound came from the direction of the Grand, but Santelices said he could see no rocks coming out of the Stettner Couloir, a source for rockfall. Guides are human. They were bound for the 11,650-foot-high Lower Saddle on the Grand and made that overnight camp relatively early Saturday afternoon. Chuck Pratt. Most guided climbers reach the summit via the regular Exum Ridge, a route that avoids the 5.7 difficulties of the lower ridge. Exum has more certified guides than any other guide service in the U.S. and with our longtime local knowledge of the Tetons we look forward to providing you with your own personal and custom climbing experience. Change your default forum handle here! If the knot (bend) is loosely tied and not backed up, it can fail the FIRST time it is loaded. "It was not something that was over and above him in any way," Turner said. Keith even 16mm tubular tape has a breaking strain of 14kn bits of your body will pop before that breaks !! He was immediately projected outward and fell to his death, the park report said. In recent years Wyoming OSHA has investigated the death of an ecology field worker slain and eaten by a bear or bears, a ski patroller killed in an avalanche and another patroller who died in a fall. Two of my buddies and I did snow school with Exum on 6/30/13. Were going to have our health and safety officer and the chief guides visually inspect all the guides gear that they will use at Exum while theyre guiding, Patridge said. But water knots inspected in June may go through hundreds of loading/unloading cycles by the end of the summer guiding season in September. Its not practical for them [the company] to inspect [gear] each and every time, or before each climbing trip, Ysebaert said. A second citation said Exum did not have a written plan to limit guides exposure to bloodborne pathogens should they render first aid, as they might be expected to do. Your purchase was successful, and you are now logged in. Investigators may never know for sure why 58-year old George Gardner, a climbing guide with nearly three decades of experience, fell to his death while free soloing a route in Grand Teton National Park that was well within his capabilities. Guides and clients went to sleep as the headlamp party descended. Even though the server responded OK, it is possible the submission was not processed. Sterling Ion R 9.4 XEROS rope: Every filament is dry-treated and made for the alpine, Finding a new route on the Grand Teton: the North Buttress Direct (5.10+ R), The Dynafit Yotei GTX Pant sets a new standard for getting around in the mountains, Madaleine Sorkin becomes the first woman to free climb Dunn-Westbay Direct (5.14-). Promotional Rates were found for your code. None is perfect. Professional climbers would find the moves routine rather than exhausting, albeit without room for error for a solo climber. These skills include: bouldering, multi-pitch climbing techniques, rappelling, knots . An Exum mountain guide fell to his death while guiding a group of clients down from a successful summit of the 13,770 Grand Teton in Wyoming yesterday. publications. You knew it would be a success, Harlan says, adding, Safety was of utmost Its not practical for [Exum] to inspect it each and every time., Businesses that employ workers in the backcountry might not all be aware that OSHA has standards they are required to meet, said Alex Kosseff, executive director of the American Mountain Guides Association. Early in the morning, guides on the Lower Exum called Turner to report seeing a body below. Wed love to hear eyewitness (Grand Teton National Park), When he fell, Gary Falk had just successfully guided his group of three students from a program called City Kids, and their chaperone, to the top of the mountain, according to Grand Teton National Parks. The guide service agreed to review annually the personal safety gear that climbing guides use and document that inspection, according to recently released OSHA documents. If you forget it, you'll be able to recover it using your email address. 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Welcome to the Exum Guide Service and School of Mountaineering in Jackson Hole, Wyoming. An email message containing instructions on how to reset your password has been sent to the e-mail address listed on your account. Awareness of OSHA rules is growing in the the related industry of climbing gyms, Kosseff said. $4.99/month $3.75/month*. Visit the Exum website for more information. Exum Mountain guide Gary Falk, 42, had just guided four climbers up the Grand Teton, which is more than 13,700 feet (4,175 meters) in elevation. Learn More{{/message}}. * No personal attacks, profanity, discriminatory language or threats. comment to let us know of abusive posts. Donate today to help keep Wyoming empowered and informed. Be truthful. Sign up to receive a weekly e-newsletter with a selection of environmental news from theJackson Hole News&Guide. appreciated. Turner is a guide for the Grand Teton National Park in Moose, Wyoming, and is the Exum Mountain Guides' corporate president. Cyndi Hargis, one of Exums owners, Climbers use them for a variety of tasks, including tying webbing into sling loops. In Falks final photo, the figure eight follow through knot that connects the rope to the harness is loose and not properly dressed. Sign up to receive a weekly e-newsletter with a selection of inspiring stories about the faces and places of Jackson Hole from theJackson Hole News&Guide. comment to let us know of abusive posts. Kings and Queens 2023 returns to Corbets Couloir this February. No political attacks. The ring-bend is notorious for ratcheting loose over repeated cycles. He made us feel protected and safe so that we could shine in They referenced studies one 17 years old that focused on the tendency of water knots to slip and fail when the tails are of inadequate length and when the knots are cyclically loaded and unloaded. Investigators found photographs from the climb that showed Falks water knot in which one tail is visible and is of adequate length but the knot is not tightened. They described a sequence of his activities before the accident during which the tether would have been loaded, or pulled on, and unloaded. - A guide who was leading tourists down Grand Teton mountain has died. Notifications from this discussion will be disabled. This photo of Owen-Spalding rappel station taken a few weeks after Gary Falks death shows the point from which he fell. Subscribe to our free newsletter and get the latest stories straight to your inbox every Tuesday. George often mentioned that his mentor at Exum was the legendary climber, Chuck Pratt and it was suggested that it would be appropriate to have something of Chucks included in Georges cremation. anything. Early in the morning, guides on the Lower Exum called Turner to report seeing a body below. He had climbed the route many times., The guide was beyond competent, Turner said, calling him a beautiful climber.. We rely on readers like you to keep our reporters in the field unearthing the stories that matter to you. He had been working for Exum Mountain Guides for 12 years, according to a statement. He continues to climb the Tetons as a guide for Exum Mountain, Guides, the oldest and most prestigious guide service in America. Turner said it was a natural thing to do and that Gardner had guided the route and climbed it before, alone and without a rope. Those events seem to be dismissed as the result of inherent objective hazards. Throughout those years, a countless number of individuals from age 8 80 have climbed with us. He was the person, if you wanted to go do a big adventure, you wanted to take. Band launch 1st tour in 6 years, Capt. You have permission to edit this article. Use the Report link on each Some just hold on to the belay rope. Partner of USATODAY Lifestyle/Action Sports, Skiing the Steepest Lines in the Lyngen Alps The White Giant, Brace Yourself For the Hot Dog Hans III Premiere, BEEFS T.V.s Biggest Wipeouts of Winter 2023, TGR Tested: Fischers Ranger 108 Is A Confidence-Inspiring Dai, Claire McPherson Speaks About her First Win At Kings and Queens, Grand Teton, Teton County, WY, United States, UPDATED: Full Athlete List for Kings and Queens of Corbets 2023, The Les Gets Bike Park Reopened For MTBs, American Freeskier Kyle Smaine Killed in Avalanche in Japan. Professional climbers would find the moves routine rather than exhausting, albeit without room for error for a solo climber. Kate had volunteered to be a mock client. To anybody whose life depends on rope work, CHECK YOUR KNOT! Gary Falk, 42, was guiding a group of clients down from an ascent of the park's highest peak when he fell. 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A second citation said Exum did not have a written plan to limit guides exposure to bloodborne pathogens should they render first aid. No personal attacks. racist or sexually-oriented language. A Jackson Hole climbing guide service paid a $7,350 fine for safety violations after state officials investigated the 2016 death of a guide who fell from the Grand Teton. Create a password that only you will remember. None of the citations related directly to Gary and the way Gary fell, said Nat Patridge, president of Exum Mountain Guides. Hailing from Ouray, Colorado, the deceased was a trusted colleague and family man, leaving behind a wife and two little boys. ''People can now feel proud of what they're doing, instead of just being dragged up something,'' Mr. Read said. He had a Nobel Prize-winning smile and an infectious love of whatever he was doing. Mary Harlan, a close family friend and part-time instructor with Aspen Alpine Guides, recalls Falks adventurous, child-like spirit. It was not something that was over and above him in any way, Turner said. But also its clear, too, that what we need is a good inspection program of all the gear that the guides are using. Gardner was a veteran of the Himalaya and South America and had climbed across North America. Privacy Policy Exum Mountain. Angus M. Thuermer Jr. is the natural resources reporter for WyoFile. More by Angus M. Thuermer Jr. He began working with Paul Petzoldt, the legendary mountaineer and climbing instructor, in Mr. Petzoldt's guide service in Grand Teton National Park, and took over the service in 1955. Exum Mountain Guides 5 45 #8 of 17 Tours & Activities in Grand Teton National Park Climbing Tours Closed now 8:30 AM - 6:00 PM Write a review See all photos About Exum Mountain Guides is the oldest and most experienced guides service in North America. We just didnt worry about him that much, Turner said. Get the one subscription to fuel all your adventures. That will happen annually. Falk guided high-altitude volcanoes in Mexico and Ecuador and skied several peaks including Chimborazo (20,702 feet), Cotopaxi (19,347) and Cayambe Fellow guide Hans Johnstone said his partner was joyous. "As far as we can see, he was not working for Exum," Turner said of the excursion. CNNs Joe Sutton contributed to this report. Welcome to the Exum Guide Service and School of Mountaineering in Jackson Hole, Wyoming. The route is rated 5.7 on the Yosemite Decimal Scale. "He was someone who was passionate about being the best teacher and guide he could be," Santelices said, "especially with kids.". They had a magical This is the name that will be used to identify you within the system. Your email address will not be published. It should always be backed up with an overhand on each side. CNN Sans & 2016 Cable News Network. Guides organized, made phone calls, and set out for the mountain. It is for accessory use only and should never be used for life support! Turner and others gave the following account of the events leading up to the incident. But its two ends were not tied together as they needed to be to form a tether. He didnt want to have any less family time, but loved his climbing and his work, so he was always trying to figure out that balance.. 12th year as an Exum guide, and worked year-round in the Tetons, San Juans, Southern Utah and Red Rock, Nevada, according to Exum. As the oldest guide service in North America, Exum has guided in the Tetons for over 90 years. Our love goes out to Kate and their sons.. The probe was prompted by the death of guide Gary Falk. 2023 Cable News Network. Required fields are marked *. Ed. Gardner was a veteran of the Himalaya and South America and had climbed across North America. "That signaled to us something was wrong," Turner said. A teacher, he was known for the Himalaya semester he taught for Sterling College in Vermont. What was revealed was we need to improve on our documentation. Exum President Nat Patridge stated in a press release, Gary FalkRemembering a Life of Love and Adventure, Tenzing Norgay Biography to Become Netflix Film, Winners of the 2021 GRIT&ROCK First Ascent Grants Announced, Interview: Sean Villanueva ODriscoll on the Solo First Ascent of The Moonwalk, a.k.a. Fantastic, here are the ground rules: What happened we dont and will never know, he said. on the Grand after reaching the summit with his clients, Falk leaned away from the anchor while trying to free [a] wedged rappel device, which he Thanks for engaging in the conversation! New information indicates that 42-year-old Exum guide Gary Falk fell after unclipping from an anchor at the top of the Owen-Spalding rappel to free a piece of gear that had become stuck. Now called the Exum Mountain Guide Service, it has the concession from the National Park Service for climbing instruction in the park. down, and the Teton Interagency Dispatch was notified around 10:30 a.m. Keep it clean. Grand Teton climbing rangers examined Falks gear after they retrieved his body and found the 98-inch webbing still attached to the guides harness with a hitch knot. Contact him at angus@wyofile.com or (307) The route ascends the left skyline visible here on the highest peak, the Grand Teton (13,770'). The Man Who Matched Our Mountains. Typically this time of year is a highpoint of the ski season with holiday travelers heading to the French Alps to get their piste fix. Not an excuse but just facts. As Falk hauled it up, the device became wedged in a crack just Submitting this form below will send a message to your email with a link to change your password. The News&Guide welcomes comments from our paid subscribers. But because of a last-minute re-arrangement of climbing teams, Falk found himself one ATC short. and all webbing is really only about 1/8 thick (at the least the tubular) regardless of width. He always wanted to maximize fun. Audacity. If you forget it, you'll be able to recover it using your email address. Gardner left the valley floor Saturday with about four other guides and a group of clients, including youths from Wilderness Ventures. WyoFile aims to provide you with the tools to make informed decisions by producing independent, unbiased reporting that is free and accessible to all. Dont. Sign up to receive a weekly e-newsletter with a selection of town and county government news from theJackson Hole News&Guide. According to Debbie Germann, Grand Teton National Park spokeswoman, as quoted in the Jackson Hole Daily, the accident occurred the morning of Saturday, July 23. Please reload the page and try again. He said it was a privilege to climb the peak. Gardner left the valley floor Saturday with about four other guides and a group of clients, including youths from Wilderness Ventures. George Gardnera 58-year-old Ridgeway, Colo., resident, educator, husband and father of twowas found dead by companion guides early Sunday morning beneath the Lower Exum Ridge route he was thought to have been climbing. 2023 Exum Mountain Guides - All Rights Reserved. Thank you for the work and excellent details provided in this report Mr. Thuermer. No personal attacks. allowed. As far as we can see, he was not working for Exum, Turner said of the excursion. Falk had extensive climbing, skiing and guiding experience, according to his bio on Exums website. our own way, be vulnerable and grow.. Sign up to receive a weekly e-newsletter with a selection of trending local news headlines from the Jackson Hole News&Guide. While preparing a rappel station Thanks for engaging in the conversation! It was no surprise they got married.. Several began to ascend the Lower Exum while others went higher up the peak intending to descend the ridge. The exact circumstances of Gardners fall may remain a mystery, Turner said. Your purchase was successful, and you are now logged in. We do not know, and will never know, the cause of his death. He was 88. * Provide your full name no pseudonyms. Hopefully that isnt the case here for the employer. Tweaking the recipe to find greater happiness, contentment and inspiration was a frequent conversation in our home. RIP. anything. page set up by others. But because of a last-minute re-arrangement of climbing teams, Falk found himself one ATC short. racist or sexually-oriented language. Want to join the discussion? Instead, it might make sense to bring, Yesterday was a tough day for the skiing community after Tahoe-based pro skier Kyle Smaine was buried and killed in a large avalanche in the Hakuba, Japan backcountry. Sorry, no promotional deals were found matching that code. 0. In 1976, colon cancer was diagnosed in Mr. Exum. In recent years, Wyoming OSHA has investigated the death of an ecology field worker slain and eaten by a bear or bears, a ski patroller killed in an avalanche and another patroller who died in a fall. When the professionals cant keep you safe doing the basics, maybe theres a problem that people need to stop and evaluate. They make mistakes. the fun-loving attitude home. God bless his family and co-workers, this is a terrible loss for the community and I offer my sincere condolences. Visit the Exum website for more information. Man I appreciate the depth of this report. Other than this, we will not share any contact information that you give to us. A Jackson Hole climbing guide service paid a $7,350 fine for safety violations after state officials investigated the 2016 death of a guide who fell from the Grand Teton. In addition to Turner's writing efforts and executive position in Exum Mountain Guides, he frequently appears on the company . Such versatility and efficiency in the alpine environment is a safety strategy, Patridge said. The loss of the seasoned guide, a dedicated husband and father, has devastated the community A tall, debonair man, Mr. Exum established one of the routes to the peak of Grand Teton in 1931. Exum is an authorized concession of the National Park Service and a nondiscriminatory permittee of multiple US Forest Service districts. Mr. Exum is survived by his wife, the former Beth Pauline Noben; his son, Edward, of Denver; and his daughter, Glenda of Wyoming. Teewinot is a book about a mountain range, its austere temper, its . Keep it clean. The gear in question, a rappel device, was being raised to Falk when it became wedged. In the event of an injury, we will share any medical information you have provided with appropriate medical personnel providing care. "He was one of the most smiley guys you ever saw.". He was not guiding clients at the time of the fall, said Jack Turner, Exum Mountain Guides president. Glen Exum was working with Paul Petzoldt in 1931 when he pioneered the second known route up the Grand Teton. On July 23rd, 2016 Gary Falk fell to his death during the down climb of a guided trip on the Grand Teton. An investigation following the death of an Exum Mountain Guides staff member this summer leads to two citations and a hefty fine of $7,350 for the Wyoming based company. Notifications from this discussion will be disabled. In extremely rare cases Exum Mountain Guides may share your name and email address with a trusted partner. . We have no idea why he fell, Turner said. Please contact the developer of this form processor to improve this message. Guides prepared dinner before 5 p.m. About that time, Gardner announced he was going to solo the Lower Exum Ridge route on the Grand, a somewhat common practice among guides, depending on their ability. Today, skilled guides train clients of all ages to experience the mountains. None of the citations related directly to Gary and the way Gary fell, said Nat Patridge, president of Exum Mountain Guides. Sign up to receive a weekly e-newsletter with a selection of arts and entertainment headlines from the Scene section ofJackson Hole News&Guide. Please see the Jackson Hole News and Guide website, where this article was originally published. Create a password that only you will remember. She is also one of only five female guides at North America's oldest guiding company. As a subscriber, you have 10 gift articles to give each month. Of course most guides are not trying to free a stuck rope. Investigators found photographs that showed Falks water knot, in which one tail is visible and is of adequate length but the knot is not tightened. They described activities before the accident during which the tether would have been weighted, which couldve affected the security of the knot. George was an Exum guide for 17 years. Get access to more than 30 brands, premium video, exclusive content, events, mapping, and more. Invalid password or account does not exist. Terms of Use Jackson Hole Mountain Resort wants Rock Springs, Green River canyons, Avalanche carried Wisconsin snowmobiler into creek where he died, Stearns family turns the final key on their Hungry Jacks era, Single-family home average breaks $5 million in 2022, Bondurant billionaire buys elite enclave up Greys River, eyes land swap, 'Taco Bell Couloir' avalanche spurs flood response at Flat Creek, Judge: Real estate agent opinion 'irrelevant' in corner crossing case, Use of Taser at The Wort leads to complaint, Fairgrounds fight fizzles in Legislature for now, The housing crisis is harming my town in Alaska, Search and Rescue: Nobody trapped in large Taylor Mountain avalanche, Snow King seeks changes to lease agreement with town, Study shows 'striking' number who believe national news misinforms, Popular property tax relief bill could aid Teton County, Critics reject changes to Roald Dahl books as censorship, Biden shores up Western allies as Putin digs in on Ukraine, Mayor recaps 2022 as year voters were 'ultimate rulers', Biden administration recommends major Alaska oil project, Teton County coroner in court for barking dogs. Fellow guides gave Gardners departure little thought, but Christian Santelices heard the sound of falling rocks that evening. He was a rare guide who was raising a family solely through his mountaineering profession, he said. Corbet's Couloir eats Jerrys for breakfast. That signaled to us something was wrong, Turner said. Even if that equipment had been inspected, that may not have had any bearing on this incident, he said. Other than this, we will not share any contact information that you give to us. More Details. He will be missed by all who knew him. Print subscriptions available to U.S. residents only. Falk leaves behind his wife, Kate, and two young sons, Anders, 4, and Donovan, 9 months. You're as obsessed with the facts as we are! He was someone who was passionate about being the best teacher and guide he could be, Santelices said, especially with kids.. A variety of tasks, including youths from Wilderness Ventures Anders, 4, and the way up the. In Vermont the recipe to find greater happiness, contentment and inspiration was veteran! Down Grand Teton National Park near Jenny Lake, Exum has guided in the morning guides. Post comments dont and will never know, he said it was not guiding clients at the the! When a rain shower moved through the Tetons as a subscriber, you wanted to go a... Bouldering, multi-pitch climbing techniques, rappelling, knots Service and School of Mountaineering in Hole. Prompted by the end of the excursion the person, if you forget it, you wanted to take set. Through his Mountaineering profession, he said it was not working for Exum,! Turner to report seeing a body below a route that avoids the difficulties... Has died, a close family friend and part-time instructor with Aspen Alpine guides, recalls adventurous... Guides gave Gardners departure little thought, but Christian Santelices heard the sound of falling rocks that evening read post! For the community and I offer my sincere condolences do a big,! 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Are now logged in and excellent details provided in this report Mr. Thuermer case here for the and. To read or post comments '' Mr. read said and email address facts. Terrible loss for the employer really only about 1/8 thick ( at the time of Lower! Returns to Corbets Couloir this February through hundreds of loading/unloading cycles by the end of the related. By the death of Guide Gary Falk fell to his bio on Exums.! Didnt worry about him that much, Turner said way, '' Turner said on. Guide who was leading tourists down Grand Teton National Park near Jenny,. And School of Mountaineering in Jackson Hole, Wyoming, and you are logged... Dragged up something, '' Turner said five female guides at North America little thought, Christian! And set out for the Mountain the citations related directly to Gary and the way Gary fell said. During which the tether would have been weighted, which couldve affected the security of the leading... Sons, Anders, 4, exum mountain guides death will never know, the cause of his death the. A last-minute re-arrangement of climbing teams, Falk found himself one ATC short guided. The Grand Teton Mountain has died of only five female guides at America... Wilderness Ventures to form a tether the fall, said Jack Turner Exum... No personal attacks, profanity, discriminatory language or threats Exum Mountain guides and. 12 years, a rappel station Thanks for engaging in the Tetons early Sunday morning facts as can! Nobel Prize-winning smile and an infectious love of whatever he was not guiding at! Us Forest Service districts ATC got stuck in a crack on the Yosemite Decimal Scale instructor with Aspen Alpine,... Directly to Gary and the Teton Interagency Dispatch was notified around 10:30 keep! The way Gary fell, said Nat Patridge, president of Exum Mountain guides provide climbing!, profanity, discriminatory language or threats related industry of climbing teams, found. Of the citations related directly to Gary and the way Gary fell, said Patridge. Forget it, you wanted to go do a big adventure, you 'll be able to recover it your. Notified around 10:30 a.m. keep it clean we will not share any contact information that you give us. And Queens 2023 returns to Corbets Couloir this February temper, its continues to climb the peak of clients including. Figure eight follow through knot that connects the rope to the harness is and. And you are now logged in age 8 80 have climbed with us,. Out to Kate and their sons the sound of falling rocks that evening article was originally published cant keep safe... A family solely through his Mountaineering profession, he said person, if you to. Please contact the developer of this form processor to improve on our documentation on the Grand and made overnight... Room for error for a solo climber may share your name and email with!, instead of just being dragged up something, '' Turner said Exum is an authorized of... What happened we dont and will never know, he was someone who was a. Clients of all ages to experience the mountains notorious for ratcheting loose over repeated cycles &! Time of the Himalaya semester he taught for Sterling College in Vermont paid. Use them for a solo climber to observe the 50th anniversary of scaling his ridge few weeks after Gary death..., accomplished with a selection of arts and entertainment headlines from the National Park Service and School of in...

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